What makes surf waves

First, there are the conditions that lead to initial wave formation. These determine the quality and size of the ground swell that will hit the surf spot. The second main factor is the local conditions at the surf spot. These have to be right to ensure the swell can create quality waves. Let's look at both of these factors in turn. In the " How Waves Are Made " section the factors that go into creating a swell are looked at.

Take a read if you want more information - we'll list the main factors from the article here. There are three main factors that affect the size of a wave or for our purposes the quality of the swell in open sea. Basically we are talking about a storm. Ok, a big storm. Just like that.

Onions are making you cry! Is this a cooking site or a surfing site? We use the term onion to describe deep low pressures on the weather charts. Closely packed isobars areas of equal pressure shown on a weather map mean strong winds.

It is these deep low pressure onions that generate the big swells. The swell will be bigger and last longer A good example of a surf weather chart Can you spot the onion? The above pressure chart shows a large fetch area and a low pressure to generate the swell.

Imagine that the low pressure area above is thousands of miles away from the surf spot. If this weather pattern did not change for days, our surf spot would be pumping. The high pressure region with a lack of isobars over the surf spot ensures that the local conditions should be good. There we have it — wind speed, wind duration and a large fetch. Things are looking good for a surf. Now we need to look at the local conditions affecting surf quality.

If one imagines wave water itself following this same pattern, it is easier to understand ocean waves as simply the outward manifestation of kinetic energy propagating through seawater. The only thing waves do transmit across the sea is energy. The idea of waves being energy movement rather than water movement makes sense in the open ocean, but what about on the coast, where waves are clearly seen crashing dramatically onto shore?

Eventually this imbalance in the wave reaches a breaking point, and the crest comes crashing down as wave energy is dissipated into the surf.

Where does a wave's energy come from? There are a few types of ocean waves and they are generally classified by the energy source that creates them. Stretch it out and vibrate the first coil and observe how a wave travels back and forth. Think about what they need to understand about the physics of big waves to survive.

Be sure to describe the geography and the topography of the ocean floor in these areas. What do surfers need to know about the science of waves to be able to catch the perfect wave? Be sure to describe how surfers use their knowledge of gravity, momentum, and balance to ride their surf boards.

Introduction to Waves , National Geographic Xpeditions. Click on real time forecasts to observe data collected on waves and weather from research stations around the world. California Academy of Sciences , Wild California. Check out the back issues for other informative articles on what you are presenting in the classroom.

Go outside and observe big waves. Find out more about Tides. How energy is transferred during a wave. Stretch the rope between you until it almost touches the ground. Jerk the rope and observe how the snap traveled through rope. Creating your own wave pool. Tap the waters surface with a pencil to observe what happens.